SLP Loudmouth Exhaust - Blackcamaro.com

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Unfortunately, I don't have any sound clips of just the loudmouth, only ones with the new cam and heads, which is a BIG difference so it wouldn't do you any good.  I do have This One that I found on my computer.  I downloaded it about a year ago, so I don't remember where it came from.  If its from your site please email me so I can give you credit!

The SLP Loudmouth replaces your factory cat-back system with a "Resonator" system.  Gives you more horsepower, but cuts the noise less.  This is fine with me!  I did both the headers and cat back at the same time, so I can't say how much power one or the other gave me, but with both, there is definitely a big power addition.  The sound is amazing, at idle it is a grumble, at acceleration, a roar, and at WOT, an all-out scream.  This is exactly what this car should sound like.  Without the headers, I've heard that there can be a cabin resonation at around 2000 RPM, but with the headers this does not exist.  I had also heard a couple complaints that the tips stuck out to far in the back, but these are perfect, again, maybe due to the headers.  In the car, the noise level is only slightly more, no problems with conversation or listening to the radio.  This is one mod that for the money, you will be extremely pleased with the result.

Resonator:  There is some confusion over what a resonator does.  It is NOT the same as the tin cans that you see on the imports.  Those are designed to INCREASE noise.  Believe it or not, the SLP resonator is designed to reduce noise (take it off and see how much louder it is!), and at the same time allow high flow, yielding more power.  The resonator is a piece of 4.5" pipe with the 3" exhaust pipe sticking in a few inches on both ends.  What happens is the sound waves enter the resonator, get trapped in the extra space, and start bouncing around in it, creating pressure and canceling out other sound waves that come in.  So it lets more air through than your typical muffler, but not all of it.  When you floor it though, it is enough force to mostly overcome the pressure, and you're going to be almost as loud as without a muffler at all.  So if your inspection station or friendly state trooper thinks you're amplifying the sound, that simply isn't the case.

Legality:  The muffler does not affect your emissions, making it federally legal.  HOWEVER, many states and towns have laws on noise.  For example, Massachusetts states that modifying the factory exhaust in any way that makes it louder than stock is grounds for failing inspection.  Luckily, "stock" is a relative term, and most shops just say, as long as you have a muffler and no major leaks, you're fine.  Heck, how else do those imports pass, they are putting that big thing on there with the SOLE purpose of making it louder!  And to think my inspection guy gave me a hard time with 4 of them sitting in the parking lot farting away!  To help, SLP sends out this letter to explain the resonator and how it is in fact a muffling device.  That got me past inspection.

The System:  The exhaust system is very straightforward, 3" pipe with as few mandrel bends as possible, going through the resonator then splitting off to dual outlets (capped with your choice of dual or slash cut tips).  It is very lightweight and doesn't take up much space (less than the stock muffler by far).  The only thing I didn't like was the "slip fittings".  I am planning to replace them with flanges.  They do this to save clearance, so its not a bad idea, its just the slip fits are a real pain to take apart and get back together after they've rusted.  The system can easily be painted with a high temp paint in the color of your choice.

Install Tips:  The install is very straightforward, just slap it all together.  I did modify some things though.  First, the left tips were further away from the center than the right ones.  To fix this, I cut about 1.5" off the pipe that goes between the two tips (cut from the pipe that slides inside the other).  I also notched the pipe that goes over this pipe to allow it to expand and thus go on further.  By doing this, you'll notice the rubber hanger on the drivers side must now be pulled toward the middle to hook onto the exhaust, but I've had no problems with this.  When you get the whole system together, leave the clamp that holds these pipes a tad loose, now you can adjust the driver side tips to the same distance from the bumper as the passenger (mine is about 1/4 inch) then tighten it down REAL TIGHT so it won't rattle its way down.  Again this is the last thing you do after tightening everything else down.  If you feel the tips stick out too much, you can cut some off the I-pipe (were the Y connects to the cat back).  Again cut it off the inside one.  I wouldn't do more than an inch or you will have fitment problems with the exhaust.  Alternatively, just remove the tips and cut some off the very ends of the pipes. The clamps hold very well, some get theirs welded, but I need to take mine off so much for engine and structural mods that it was out of the question, and again, no problems at all with the clamps, just get them good and tight.

 

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