Red Number:  Required for both heads and cam
Green Number:  Required for CAM only
Blue Number:  Required for Heads only

1. Pull the front wheels onto a set of 2x4s if you need the clearance to get a jack underneath.  Let the car cool overnight.  Make sure you have all the tools and stuff you need!

2.  Begin draining the radiator, put a tub under it and open the drain on the passenger side bottom of radiator.  Remove the radiator cap and let it drain for about 10 mins (while you do the next steps).

3.  Remove the cat-back exhaust if you have headers with slip-fittings.  For stock manifolds, just remove the bolts between the cats and manifolds.

4.  Remove the intake lid, MAF, and bellows as one assembly by loosening the clamp that attaches the bellows to the throttle body.  Give it a twist and it comes free.

5.  Detach the IAT plug from the lid and the MAF plug from the MAF.  Also remove the AIR tube from the lid.  First loosen the clamp with a flat head screwdriver.  A flathead slid between the tube and the hose can help loosen it, or just put on a glove and twist it until the hose loosens.  Set the assembly and the air filter aside.

6. Remove the radiator shroud by removing the 4 bolts and set aside.

7. Remove the plastic guard in front of the A/C.  It attaches via 2 "ears" at the bottom left and right of the A/C radiator (best accessed from the bottom of the car).  Pull the ears off the studs and fold them inward toward the center of the car.  There is one more stud in the very middle of the guard, pop it off that and remove, it comes out slowly but surely, try not to bend the fins on the A/C when removing it.

8.  Disconnect all hoses to the radiator.  Disconnect the power plugs from both fans with a screwdriver.  Pop the retainers holding the wiring to the fan shroud, again with a flathead.  Now this is a bit tricky, you need to lift the A/C (front) radiator up and then pull it forward.  You are basically unhooking it from the 4 points that it sits on the radiator.  Now pull the radiator and fan assembly as one up and out, it is a tight squeeze coming in front of the water pump pulley but slowly and surely does it.  Of course coolant is gonna go everywhere, try not to get it on the paint.  Set it aside.  This step start to finish can take 30 mins or more, it loves to snag and jam, but it'll come out.

9.  Now we remove the accessory belt.  The main tensioner is the top leftmost pulley when facing the car.  The bolt in it has a bigger head than the others.  Use a 15mm ratchet and turn the whole pulley module clockwise, removing the belt when its loose. 

10.  The A/C belt (if you have it) is the same procedure, this tensioner is sort of in the middle of the engine, somewhat to the right.

11.  Remove the two AIR tubes from the headers/manifolds.  Each is held on by two bolts.  Set the gaskets aside.  You can either keep pushing these out of the way or remove the clamp from each using a flathead screwdriver and take them off completely.

12.  Remove the spark plug wires from the coil packs.  Twist them until you feel them break free, then just pull off.

13.  Remove the coil packs.  Each is held on with 5 10mm bolts.  You'll need a deep socket since they have threaded rod sticking out of them.  You want the ones with the flat tops, NOT the ones with the non-threaded pointed end.  The rearmost on each side is a pain, on the drivers side there is a bracket attached, on the passenger side its just really hard to get to.  I didn't put these rear ones back on at the end.  Remove the big plug and set the packs aside.

14.  Remove the valve covers.  Loosen the 8mm bolts and slide them up, they will stay in the covers.  Slide the hose out of the back of the driver side and the two out of the passenger side.  Set them aside.

15. Get the top of a copy paper box from an office supply store, or something similar.  Draw a line down the middle, label the sides "driver", "passenger", "front", and "rear" so the box is laid out like your car essentially.  Now remove the rocker arms (one 8mm bolt each) and lay them in this box lid in the correct order (front to front, passenger to passenger, etc).  After all 16 are removed, remove the 16 pushrods and put them on a clean paper towel.  Lastly pull the two rocker mounting plates (one on each side) and set them in the box.

16.  Remove the throttle cable from the throttle body.  Just open the throttle all the way, turn the cable toward the front of the car, and slip the nub on the end out toward the passenger side.

17.  Remove the plugs and hoses from the throttle body.  The only tricky one is the driver side plastic hose.  Just push the thin grey thing and pop it off.

18.  Next remove the 10 8mm bolts holding the intake manifold to the engine.  The front 6 can be removed completely (2 of them require you to pull the plastic trim above up and out of the way.  Or you can remove this trim completely to make more space for the whole project.  On the 4 rear bolts that you can't remove, pull them up and wrap some electrical or duct tape around the shank to hold them about 1" above where they want to rest.  This pulls the ends inside the manifold and will allow it to slide out.

19.  Remove the hose from the "brake booster", right next to the brake fluid reservoir, mounted on the master cylinder.  You can pull the plastic 90 degree elbow right out (it will release some pressure), then back off the clamp and pop it off the hose, put it back into the master cylinder.  There is a black bracket held on by the rear two driver side bolts, remove the plug that is clipped to this bracket, just slide the clip off and let the plug dangle.

20.  You can slide the intake manifold forward some now, you just need to slide the booster hose you just disconnected as you go, since the other end is connected to the back of the manifold.  Once you slide it forward some, reach in the back, there is a little "T" hose you need to just pop off.  In the same area is a plug you need to remove.

21.  With the manifold slid out still, remove the 8 plugs from the fuel injectors.  To do this, you push the silver spring up with your thumb while pulling the plug off.  On each plug there is a little blue rubber gasket, about 1/2 of them will fall out or most of the way out.  Use your trusty flathead to push them back into the plug all the way.  You'll need to pop the air tube off each side of the manifold, they just are held on by a couple clips.

22.  Now there are 2 brackets on the driver side of the manifold, you just lift up on the bracket and slide them out.  Unplug them both and push them out of the way.

23.  Using the flathead, open up the 2 clips on each side of the fuel rails and pull the wire run out of them.  Loosen the 4 fuel rail bolts (same ones that the coil packs had, deep 10mm), the rear driver side one has a clip for the throttle lines, remove that.  Remove the 4 bolts, then you need to remove the fuel injectors.  Basically, pull the front of one side, and a couple will pop out.  Pull up the rear of that same side and it's halfway out.  Same thing on the other side and its free.  I just flipped mine over and put it on the drivers side shock tower, that way you don't need to disconnect the fuel lines.  Just be careful of the injector tips.

24.  Now remove the intake manifold by feeding the brake booster hose as you pull the whole thing out, set it all aside. 

25.  Detach all hoses from the water pump.  Remove the water pump by removing the six 10mm bolts, carefully lift it up and out, coolant will spill.  There are 2 gaskets, one on each side of the pump, make sure they stay attached firmly to the pump and/or the block, if not remove and set them aside so they don't get lost.

26.  Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the cooling overflow tube to the block, this is the silver tube under the front of the intake manifold.  These are the same bolts as the fuel rails and coil packs, so you need the deep 10mm socket.  The left bolt has a ground strap attached to it, a 10mm nut, this nut will stay attached to the ground strap when you remove it.  Each end of the tube has a gasket on the bottom, make sure they stick to the block or the end, again if not, set them aside.

27.  On the back of the block, there are 2 coolant plugs where this tube is on the front.  Its basically the two ends of the tube without the tube in between.  Each is on with a 10mm bolt, just remove them and set them aside.  Each has a gasket like the front tube, keep an eye on them.

28.  On the back of the driver side head, there are 3 15mm bolts (2001, yours may be different).  Two hold ground wires, one holds a black bracket (the one that got in the way when pulling the coil packs).  Remove all 3 with a 15mm wrench and/or socket if it fits (it will for some, not for the rest).  Set these aside along with the black bracket.  On the passenger side there is one 15mm bolt holding a clamp full of wires (again 2001, yours may differ).

29.  Remove the power steering pump, there are 3 15mm bolts holding it on.  The top left one is easy, the bottom one is a bit harder (ratchet it for as long as you can then use a wrench), the top right requires some patience but isn't bad.  Just use an open ended wrench to turn the bolt as you pull the cooler away from the head.  You need the wrench to be angled back toward the head as opposed to forward, and it should slide right in there.  Now secure the cooler to something out of the way with a zip tie.

30.  Time to pop the heads off.  Remove the 5 small bolts along the top first, then the 10 larger ones.  A big ratchet and/or breaker bar will be necessary to break them free.  Remove them and discard all but one of each size bolt.  Once all the bolts are out you pull up on the head, it will break free, and coolant goes everywhere.  Begin to pull it out, making sure there is nothing left connected, and then remove completely.  Dump out any remaining coolant.  Repeat for the other side.

31.  Peel off the stock head gaskets and discard.  Use a plastic scraper or CAREFULLY use a razor blade to clean any remaining gasket off the block.  Be thorough, spend 5-10 mins per side.  Do not gouge the block with the razor.  After this I wiped both sides down with carb cleaner, cleaned off some more of the gasket.  It should be left perfectly smooth to the touch, although may still be somewhat discolored from the gasket still.  You can use a scouring pad designed for Teflon pans to clean it up more if you want, but it probably won't get much more than you already have.  I used a shop vac while scraping the gasket to try and stop most of it from falling into the coolant/engine passages.  Also, I stuffed paper towels in over the lifter passages.

32.  Now the worst part.  You need to get the bolt holes perfectly clean.  First, you'll need to tear a strip off a piece of paper towel (about 1/3 of a typical sheet) and twist it up good and tight.  Then "thread" it into the bolt hole.  Do this for ALL of the large bolt holes (20 of them) and leave them in there for 5 minutes.  This allows them to "wick" up as much coolant as possible.  Then remove these and discard, and use this same method without leaving them in there to remove any remaining coolant one hole at a time.  Thread it in, pull it out, tear off the end, repeat until it comes out perfectly dry twice in a row (in case it didn't go all the way in one time).  The small top holes are easy there should be little or no coolant in them.

To Be Continued.....