Brake Caliper Painting - Blackcamaro.com

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 Front Caliper Rear Caliper

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The following is for informational use only, author(s) are not responsible for damage or any other expense caused by the use of this information.  In all cases of jacking up the car, or using tools, BE CAREFUL and DO IT PROPERLY.  Parking brake, wheel chocks, and jack stands are NOT OPTIONAL, they are NECESSARY.  Always disconnect the negative battery lead where electronics or welding are involved, and make sure the lead is touching nothing but air.  Be safe, and have fun.  See the Safety Tips page for more info.

1.  Break the front lug nuts free (since you can't lock the wheels in the air).

2.  Toss the car on 4 jack stands, doesn't have to be up real high, just get the wheels off the ground.

3.  Remove all 4 wheels.

4.  Use a dremel, detail sander, file, etc to smooth off the 4 faces of the calipers, and around the edges.  I spent about an hour on each caliper.  Then wipe them down with brake cleaner.

5.  Remove the two caliper bolts on the back of each caliper.  Pull each caliper off the rotor, and zip tie or otherwise attach them to the spring or something else where it does not put pressure on the brake line.  You do not need to disconnect the brake line.  DO NOT PUSH IN THE BRAKE PEDAL ONCE THE CALIPERS ARE OFF!!!!

6.  Remove the pads, they just pop off.

7.  Remove the 4 mounting brackets (2 bolts on each), and set them aside.

8.  Take a large cheap tarp or drop cloth that won't seep paint through and cut it into four pieces.  Cut a hole in the middle of each one.  Then slide a caliper through a piece, tape the hole closed, and tape the tarp to your windows/windshield/rear window/brake lights/head lights.  Basically any non-painted glass or metal surface.  Use Gaffers tape if you can find it, it won't leave anything behind.  You can use duct tape, you'll just need some alcohol to remove the residue after.  

9.  Now mask off the caliper pistons, bleeder line cover, anything else you don't want to get hit.  Also remove the flimsy metal clip from the side of the caliper, don't want to paint it in there permanently.  Keep in mind you only need to paint the face and a couple inches back on the side and top, the rest is unseen when the wheel is on.

10.  When all 4 are ready, give each one a LIGHT (won't cover evenly) coat of 500 or 1200 degree engine enamel in your choice of color.  Both run very easily, so use light coats, especially the first one.  After all 4 have a first coat, go mask off the rubber pieces on the caliper mounting brackets, and hit them with one coat of paint each.  Also the backs of all the brake pads (the part that doesn't touch the rotors).

11.  Give everything about 15 more minutes to dry, then do another coat, this one can be a bit heavier.  Do one or two more coats, again waiting 15 mins in between each. 

12.  Then do 2 to 3 coats of high temp clear coat on everything, go very light, it runs very easily.  Again 15 mins between coats.

12.  DO NOT apply decals yet if you have them.

13.  Let everything dry for 2-3 hours at least.

14.  Remove all the masking and tarps/drop cloths carefully so as not to peel or drag the new paint.

14.  Very carefully mount the brackets, pads, clips, calipers, etc back how they were.  Try not to lift by any painted parts, and slide gently onto the brake pads.  Even though the paint has had a few hours you can still scrape it or get fingerprints on it.  It will take 2-3 days to fully cure because of all the coats, and driving will help too, the heat will bake the paint on.

15.  Carefully replace the rims, don't scrape or bump them against the calipers.  Torque all lug nuts to 50 ft-lbs in a star pattern, drop the car, torque all to 100 ft-lbs, again in the star pattern.

16.  If you want to do decals, wait at least 2 days, a week would be best.  Apply the decals carefully, then mask off all but the face of the caliper (can leave it attached this time) and apply 2 or 3 more coats of clear.