(Click to Enlarge)

1.  You want to get all 4 wheels up on 2" thick wood blocks, I use pieces 2x12x24, with an angle cut on the side you're going to drive up on.  Be careful, and give yourself a rolling start and don't floor it, try a few times if you have to.  I gave it too much gas and the back ones went about 20' behind the car, which was entertaining :-).  Make sure the front has room to chock in front and back of the wheels.

2.  Let it cool for a while if you've been driving.  Put chocks in front and in back of the front tires on the wood.

3.  Jack the rear up to a "normal" height, just enough to get started for now (See Fig. 5 below).  See Jacking Instructions page.

4.  Remove the rear wheels (optional but makes it easier to get to everything)

5.  Drop the rear sway bar down.  We'll remove the top bolt and bottom nut holding the bushing in place (Fig. 1).  Remove the top bolts with the 18mm socket.  Remove the bottom control arm nuts by using the deep 18mm socket on the nut and the 15mm shallow socket on the bolt on the other side.  Leave the control arm (lower) bolts in place and just remove the nuts.  Leave the endlinks connected.  Now you can pull backward on the sway bar to pull it off the control arm bolts and swing it down out of the way (Fig. 2, I had dropped the exhaust at this point but that was a pain, so do as I say but not as I do)

Fig 1.  (Click to Enlarge)	Fig 2.  (Click to Enlarge)	Fig 3.  (Click to Enlarge)

6.  Use a 15mm socket to remove both bolts from both exhaust flanges where the stock exhaust connects (Fig. 3).

7.  Use a 13mm deep socket to remove both nuts from both exhaust hangers and lower the old exhaust (Fig.4).

8.  If you don't care about the stock exhaust, get the sawzall and cut them both as close to the axle as you can, remove, and go to step 9.  Otherwise, this is the fun part.  For the driver side, I was able to remove it with just my jack at full height and the 2x6 I had put under there to lift it.  (Jack is 20" height, so about 21^3/4" total).  Just swing it down and wiggle it out.  For the passenger side, I needed three 2x6s, so total about 25^1/4".  Check your front chocks often to ensure they are still firmly in place as you jack it up this high.  Again swing it down and wiggle it out.  Contrary to what I've heard, the car and jack stands did not seem unstable at this height, but don't get under there or leave it up longer than necessary, just in case.  Lower it back down to the previous working height SLOWLY and again check several times to ensure the front chocks are still in place.  Now you have completely removed the stock cat-back (Fig. 5).

Fig 4.  (Click to Enlarge)	Fig 5.  (Click to Enlarge)	Fig 6.  (Click to Enlarge)

9.  Remove the stock gaskets from the flanges on the car, and scrape off any that is left behind with the razor blade.

10.  Reconnect the sway bar to how it was using the same process, torque the top bolts to 49ft-lbs and the bottom nuts to 70 ft-lbs.

11.  Toss the new pre-muffler pipes in place (Fig. 6), install the flange bolts with new gaskets, tighten just enough so the pipes are held in place but can still be rotated.

12.  Put the pipe clamps over the small piece of pipe sticking out of the new mufflers.  Make sure the nuts will be facing down, and on the front side of the exhaust (toward the engine).  Put the stock rubber hangers on the new mufflers. 

13.  Slip one new muffler over the pipe you installed in step 11.  You want to get the hanger "inside" the rear fascia first, then slip the muffler on the pipe.  Install the two hanger nuts and tighten completely, on the passenger side be careful not to pop the hanger bolts up into the body.  I didn't worry about torque specs, just go reasonably tight.  Repeat for the other muffler.

14.  For each muffler, bang the pipe section into the muffler section with a rubber mallet to seat it all the way, then tighten the pipe clamp up enough to just start compressing the pipe but where you can still rotate the muffler section.

15.  Now you have both mufflers mounted and we just need to adjust the tips (Fig.7).

16.  First, get the tips "around" the height you want them, I left about 3/4" between the pipes and the fascia, and tighten the clamps some to just barely hold them there, this is not the final adjustment for them, just enough to get the next step to be accurate.

17.  Place the level on the bottom of one set of tips (or on the bottom of the muffler for the single tip version) and twist the entire assembly until the you're level.  Tighten the flange bolts to 40ft-lbs while holding the assembly in place.  A trick I learned is if tightening the bolt is causing it to rotate the assembly out of alignment, tighten the other bolt fully first, one tightens in a way that it works against you, the other tightens in a way that helps you and holds it in place for the other one.  Re-check with the level when fully tight.

18.  Use the tape measure to get both sides the same height off the ground (mine was about 9^1/4" to the bottom of the tip on the 4-tip version).  You can pull up or down on the tips to adjust (pulling up or pushing down on the muffler helps with this too).  Stand up, and use the rear fascia to make sure they are sticking out the same distance.  If you stand about 1 foot away from the car in the middle, you can lean forward and back using the line of the fascia below the license plate to see if they are the same.  If not, pull or push on the tips until they are.  Tighten the two pipe clamps to 35ft-lbs.  Re-check height and sticking-out distance, I had to readjust a couple times because they moved some when tightening.  You can actually get one tip how you want it first, then make the other one match, the process is the same, just makes it a bit easier to only fight with one at a time.

Fig 7.  (Click to Enlarge)

About 2 hours total here and no surprises, I was very impressed with the fit and finish and the ease of install.

Comparison pics of old vs. new:

(Click to Enlarge)	(Click to Enlarge)